The New Movie Magazine (Dec 1929-May 1930)

What the designers say about waistlines and hemlines He says: "The new modes aro designed especially for the pictorial type of girl, which is the type that predominates in films. Marked individualists, like Clara Bow, must have the modes adapted for them. The selection of fabric to preserve the youthful effect is highly important. The feeling of youth is best achieved by fluttering laces, floating scarves and chiffons and souffle. "The irregular hemline, with length achieved in irregularly placed tiers of pleats and godets, and cascades, suggests the mode but still leaves the formal afternoon or evening gown short in front, longer at the sides and very long in back. I do not advise trains for everybody. One must know how to wear and carry a train ; they really belong to the more sophisticated matron type." Dolores Del Rio, who is possessed of one of the largest and most upto-date wardrobes for personal use of any screen star, is fortunate to be of the pictorial type, which experts agree is ideally suited to the new mode. She is enthusiastic over the change in fashions, and has shopped lavishly among the new models from Vionnet, Paquin, Chanel, Irande, and the new designer, Augusta bernard, who specializes in society designing, and does no work for stage or professional people. She says : "Looking absolutely right is so important to a screen actress that I do not believe the picture folk will accept anything they do not consider becoming. I personally never use anything, no matter how smart it is, unless I believe it suits me. I am fortunate enough to be the type for the new mode, and I am so excited over my new clothes. Yes, I like them unreservedly. The tight waistline and hip really give a woman two waistlines. Long skirts are universally becoming, I think, if other details are studied to balance them. I am so wild about the new skirt 72 The naturally conservative Norma Shearer likes the black velvet afternoon gown. It has a fitted yoke about the hips, with a natural waistline. The wide cuffs are made of rows of tiny satin edged ruching. HOW THE STARS VOTE ON THE NEW SILHOUETTE: Dolores Del Rio wears her gowns at ankle length. Billie Dove likes a modified princess mode. Clara Bow, in her off-screen clothes, enjoys the romance of long dresses. Joan Crawford wears her sports outfit 13 inches off the ground and her afternoon gowns two inches longer. Ina Claire dislikes frills and furbelows and hopes the modes will retain something of the old simplicity. And Greta Garbo dresses to suit her type, regardless of fashion. length that I am having my afternoon clothes all made very long, to the ankle. Is it not strange that the most extreme things I have are being made for me right here in Hollywood? "The dresses are all made of little pieces, that it would be impossible to copy. The gorgeous materials, and the large amounts used, with the expensive cutting and designing necessary, make it a rich woman's mode. While fur coats are largely demode for evening, lavish furs are used for trimmings and the fabrics are so gorgeous that it is really no saving." T>ILLIE DOVE chooses -D to have a few ideas of her own about the mode. Billie is of the pictorial type, and realizing this, never wore extremely short skirts all during the rage for them, preferring skirts a little below the knee for herself. While she is delighted with the new fashions, she takes violent exception to one line, that of the hemline which strikes the leg half between the knee and ankle. She considers it very ugly, as it makes even perfect legs appear slightly bowlegged. A line longer for afternoon wear, and a bit shorter for sports, about four inches below the knee, is her preference. Here is what Miss Dove says: "The long slightly blousing waist, with the snug hipline that Chanel is identified with, is my personal preference," declares Billie, "as it is most becoming to me. However, the natural waistline fitted and with a tiny belt, is pretty too. I do not like the extreme princess mode, though a modified form is pretty. I am very happy the long skirts have become fashionable again." Miss Dove is dressed so elaborately for the screen that she prefers simple things for her personal use, and will have a favorite model copied in another color, with accessories. Incidentally Billie is one of the most picturesque advocates of the "be your {Continued on page 108)