The Nickelodeon (Jul-Dec 1910)

December 1, 1910. THE NICKELODEON. 309 Some Questions Answered By William T. Braun In this department, answers will be given to questions upon any subject in connection with the conduct of moving picture exhibitions, the operation or construction of moving picture machines, the making of pictures or films, or any questions pertaining to the amusement business which can be answered without specific reference to any person or company. Questions are invited, and will be answered as promptly and as fully as possible. We are having trouble with the picture on the screen. Near the bottom of the picture is a flicker which hurts the eye ; also some parts of the picture are not clearly outlined on the curtain. We have a machine that has been in use about a year; and a smooth plastered wall for a curtain, so the fault is not with the curtain. — G. H. B. The flicker near the bottom of the picture is most likely the fault of the shutter. The movement of the picture should synchronize with that of the shutter ; that is, when the pins that fit in the sprocket holes in the picture pull the picture past the aperture, the shutter should cover the aperture. To remedy this open the door on which the trade mark appears, in the front of the machine head. Next remove the shutter shield on the right side of the machine as you face the projection lens. Looking in the door to the right you will see two small bevel gears which mesh or work into each other. The gear that is on the horizontal shaft, the same shaft that the flywheels are on, has two screws in its hub. Loosen the screws and the gear is free to move on the shaft. The shutter will now revolve with a touch of the hand. Now thread the machine with a piece of film and frame it up properly. Turn the flywheel around until the pins engage in the sprocket holes of the film, and bring the film down until the line which divides the pictures is exactly half-way between the top and bottom of the aperture or picture opening. Then turn one of the blades of the shutter around to the right until it covers the aperture, the center of the shutter blade being opposite the dividing line of the pictures. Now tighten the screws in the small bevel gear, being sure that it meshes with the gear on the vertical shaft, and replace the shutter shield. Throw on the arc light and start up the machine and I am sure the flicker will have disappeared. In answer to your second query, every detail of the picture should show plainly on the screen, as you evidently have a good one. Focus your picture by turning the screw on the projection lens until each detail of the picture is brought out. If this does not remedy it the fault is with the tension springs. Open the film or aperture gate and you will see two long, flat springs called tension shoes, and near the bottom of the gate two short, narrow ones opposite the pins which bring the film down. The long, flat springs should press just hard enough against the film so that it will lie flat against the film track. If your film is not very good, it will not stay flat against the track and the tension springs must be adjusted so that they will hold the film that way. On the front of the film gate is a flat vertical spring extending from below the center of the gate to the aperture. Near the bottom of it is an adjusting screw. By turning this screw the long tension shoes are brought to bear upon the film so that it will lay flat against the aperture plate. The small springs that hold the film against the pins are regulated by a round nut near the bottom of the gate, beneath which is a spiral spring. By tightening this nut the springs will bear on the film and keep the film pins engaged in the sprocket holes of the film. * * * Kindly tell me the best way to mend ordinary inflammable film?— H. H. R. When a film is torn in two or ripped so badly that it will not pass through the machine, it must be patched. This must be accurately, firmly and quickly done. The sprocket holes must match perfectly or the film will be torn apart again as it passes through the machine. All of the edges must be cemented firmly because if any of them project they will be sure to catch on the sprockets and rip again. And last but not least, quickness is necessary, as there is always an impatient audience waiting. Mending the film is a very simple operation, but Proper Way to Splice Film. it must be done just right. Good film cement can be purchased from any film exchange for twenty-five cents a bottle, or it can be made by using a mixture of 80 per cent colodion and 20 per cent ether. As the ether evaporates rapidly a little can be added to thin the mixture if it becomes too thick. Get an artist's brush with a long handle to apply the cement and a pair of small scissors to cut the film. Always keep the bottle tightly corked. To mend the film so that no frame-up will be necessary when it passes through the machine proceed as follows : Cut off one picture on dividing line A-A (see sketch), and the picture below at C-C one sprocket hole above the dividing line. Now moisten flap A-A, B-B, with water and scrape the photo emul