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The Optical Magic Lantern Journal and Photographic Enlarger.
deserves to be, an indispensable adjunct to the oil lantern, and if to the oil why not to the lime light ?
The Lantepnist’s Den.—No. 3. By C. E. Reyxprr.
How I mape an Oxy-caucium Lamp.
A rrLLow Lanternist called upon me not very long ago, and informed me that he was in difficulties over an oil lamp, that had met with all but a fatal accident, inasmuch, as it had fallen from a considerable height, which had doubled up the wick-holders, dented in the cistern in an irretrievable manner, and generally —to use a schoolboy’s phrase—‘ upset its apple cart.”
My friend had taken upon himself the task of repairing his damaged four-wicker, apparently without the slightest chance of success, for when he had untied the parcel which he had brought, and disclosed the object of his mission, I was treated to a view of one of the worst cases of collapse that has ever come under my notice.
The sight of the débris brought to my mind vivid recollections as to how, on one occasion, a lamp of my own got out of sorts (though not approaching his case), of how I set to work to put it right; of how T remembered, that in trying to solder one part, another toppled hopelessly over; of how, too, after spending many hours, my labour produced but a sorry spectacle. Of how, at last, I resolved to take the whole thing to pieces and commence to build from the beginning. This I did, and—after a fashion— completed the job; but since that experience, have ever paid ungrudgingly, a respectable price whenever this part of ny apparatus requires attention. So the advice to my friend was, “Give it a good crack with a hammer, and when nobody is about, drop it into the dusthole.” «Don't be mean,” I continued, ‘but buy one of the latest improvements in the line ” for, readcr, I advocate a good lamp as a handy and useful instrument, and, I believe, one which all lanternists prize.
But as my friend was bent on trying lis hand at something, I introduced a split jet, which I had just completed—in fact, the Aspinal enamel with which it was coated had not quite set—and strongly rezommended him to make one, it being extremely easy to accomplish. He consented, and has since thanked wwe for the Suggestion. I will briefly notify the course adopted.
I was first prompted to make one of these lainps in February last, after reading the description, and well studying the diagram which demonstrates accurately the theory, on page 14 of Lhe Optical Magic Lantern Journal for that month, and, in justice to the Editor, 1ust direct special attention to that article to any of the numerous readers who should attempt to undertake a like task.
Whatever you do, be particular that you thoroughly understand the object to be achieved, as that is more than half the battle.
Provide a couple of tin cannisters, the largest measuring 43 in. high, with an inside diameter of 8 in. This I will call the air chamber. The smaller one, or spirit chamber, must fit easily into this, with, say, an air Space of ». in. all round, and may be eut down $1n. shorter than the outer one. “ Cut in the centre of the bottom of the spirit chamber a circular hole in. The valve for this isa dat piece of tin 1 in. diameter with a piece of wire of sufficient strength soldered through its centre, leaving about an inch on each side, this is the valve rod or piston. The valve bridge is formed by taking a flat piece of tin £in. wide and 3} In. long, and making a hole in the centre to act as a guide to the piston rod. Bend the tin to form a bridge until it fits into bottom of spirit chamber, and fix each side with a little solder to secure it in place, taking care before so-doing to place the valve m position allowing one end of rod to come through hole in bridge, the other end to fall through bottom of chamber.
A piece of tin 1 in, diameter with a 4 in. hole in centre should be slightly domed and soldered over hole at bottom, this is to facilitate the pouring in of the spirit.
Now make a flat top sutliciently large to rest upon the edge of the air chamber, and see that it is securely soldered all round, for, bear in mind, this chamber must be air tight, except at valve. his part is now finished and may be put aside.
Turn a ring from a piece of wire to fit tightly inside the top of the air chamber and solder ail round. As this is only for strength, it may be dispensed with if desired, but I would’ recommend it. Cut a 4 in. hole in bottom, make ; your sliding socket, and, having tapped your hole for thumb screw, solder at side about 1d in. up.
Take a 9 in. length of 2 in. brass tube with a 1} in. length of + 10. soldered at right angles at one end, with a piece of Hat metal ready tapped to take lime pin fixed near top. The oxygen tube may be smaller, and should be bent with the fingers in shape corresponding to the drawing and hard soldered. (By the way