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Photoplay M vgazine — Advertising Section
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Styles for women, misses dud ihildren sold everywhere. GEORGE FROST CO., Makers, Boston
ASEXUAL
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ILLUSTRATED
} W1NFIELD SCOTT HALL. M.D.. Ph.D. SEX FACTS MADE PLAIN
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From the Skin Out
(Continued) appeared throughout in two costumes suggesting a combination of Spanish grandeur and Southern hospitality. Certainly she looked charming. Certainly the costumes were exquisite. Also they were about a= appropriate as a large baked ham at a Yon Kippur feast.
But the lady defended herself by declaring that she would look dreadful and ridiculou.in the conventional Western costume. Therefore she made this girl, of SpanishIrish ancestry, an unusual character study and dressed her as such.
She also took duplicates of her costumes to Wyoming with her in case of accident.
Shades of a golden past hover about the magnificent wardrobe department of the Goldwyn studio, left there by the Triangle Film Corporation and containing many ot the first Griffith and Ince costumes. Here I found the complete stage wardrobe of that beloved actress, Clara Morris. The Triangle bought this wonderful equipment from the Morris estate for 815,000. It contained many hundreds of dresses which had been worn by this famous artist in her repertoire.
From the magnificent materials contained in these gowns, materials which it would be impossible to purchase now for any price, Peggy Hamilton, the famous Triangle designer, made most of the gown worn by Alma Rubens, Gloria Swanson, Belle Bennett, Pauline Stark and in some instances, Olive Thomas. The sweeping trains were sufficient in many cases for whole dresses, and the bodices were either altered or used as they were.
The history of one screen beauty's dress career will show what can be done by a clever designer. It may also illustrate the reason that more and more studios are turning their costuming over to some clever, educated woman who understands clothes.
This star, then very far indeed from stellar honors, came to the designer at her studio one day. She was rather hopeless. Discouragement had brought tears to her eyes and the corners of her mouth drooped wistfully.
"I want to get out of comedy," she said. "I want to do real drama. But my clothes are all wrong. Now I've got a chance to do this part and somehow. I just know 1 can't make it look right. What shall I do?"
The designer looked at her. She was an extremely clever modiste, the kind that looks at a piece of pink georgette in a store window and sees Mary Pickford already gowned for a garden party.
Now she saw before her a girl of unusual personality, much talent and a kind of physical charm. But from her shoes that were too ultra to her hat that was too small, she breathed lack of distinction. something out of line, something missing. Even her underclothes were wrong, adding to the carelessness of her general effect.
The designer figured, studied — finally stripped her to the skin. She began to build and when she had finished she took the little actress to the minor. The girl took one look at herself and burst into tears.
By skin-tight under-draperies, the designer had cut down a rather square look and brought out the beautiful shoulder line, the full, voluptuous bust and the surprising daintiness of ankles and limbs. By an unbroken, slanting line from high waist to long train she had heightened her several inches and relieved a suggestion of heaviness. And by a distinguished daring simplicity of effect, she had brought into play the rare features of the girl's face and figure.
She had brains, that girl, and she saw what had been done for her. She fol
ID HI 'II III Hi HI Hi ill ill ill III ill HI HI ill ill III ill HI III ill HI 111 Hi III
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