Photoplay (Jul - Dec 1919)

:he Movies rcarures evolved by the silont drama, having; but •itl\ any ot the recognized Darwinian strains. By \V 1 L L A R D Huntington \\^ R 1 G H T Hcrh Roth The coal in front presents a still stranger ami more aweinspiring appearance. To begin with, it is lastcneii either with one button, located midway of the sternum, or with two small buttons set so close together that their outer circumferences touch. Ckrcasionally there are two buttonholes, one on either edge of the coat; ami two buttons on a short string arc inserted in them. The buttons are sometimes of carved, polished bone, sometimes of mother-of-pearl, and not infrequently they arc covered with figured satin or leather. The lapels of the coat are especially startling. They are wide and high, and shaped like pelican wings ; ami the points are so long that, from a rear view of the wearer, they can be seen projecting like spires above the collarbone. The pockets of this g-arment are imaginative chefs-d'oeuvre. The apertures generally run vertically, and possess buttoned, triangular tiaps. although there are also semi-circular openings with braided edges and box-plaits. Not infrequently the pockets are cut at sharp angles, with silken "frogs" at the corners and with scrolled tiaps. Now and then, by way of variety, the upper (or breast > pockets are of one design, while the lower pockets are of another. From the upper left pocket protrudes a silk "property' handkerchief with a colored licsipn ■ ■r chromatic border, and a large embroidered monogram. The sleeves of the coat are so tight that only when the hand is copiouslv greased will it pass through; ami in length they reach only'a little over half way from the elbow to the wrist. Moreover, they are equipped with a six-inch slit, the edges of which are ornamented with a row of decoy buttons. The shirt-cuff, which comes well down on the hand and which has a five-inch turn-back, is visible in its entirety. The vests of these movie suits harmonize in the main with the exquisite design of the coats. The opening is ver>deep, as in the evening vests of ordinarv mortals, and if not eciuipped with enormous lapels, the edges arc beautifully taped. Sometimes these vests are double-breasted, with .i single button at the bottom. In any event, they are so tight that they invariably wrinkle across the midriff. (,It is physically impossible to fasten the lower button without forceps and a windlass.) The pockets are designed to match those of the coat, and from the right-hand lower pocket a polished silver cigarette steamer trunk protrudes conspicuously. The trousers of this suit more closely resemble the regular masculine fashion than does either the coat or vest. Save for their length ami circumference they arc, in fact, of conveiitional contour and design. Instead, however, of touching the instep, they are cut so as to end a little above the top of high shoes. And the circumference is regulated by the size of the wearer's foot. That is to say, if the maximum circumference of the foot, when naked and compressed, is twelve and a half inches, then the trousers are made twelve and a half inches around — the reason for this being that a trouser-leg too narrow to permit of the penetration of the foot is impractical. All movie trousers, therefore, are large enough for the owner to get into. This suit represents the main distinguishing sartorial aspect of the movie Bird of Juno. There are, of course, other innovations in his wardrobe — the prismatically colored shirts with wrist-fitting cuffs; the tight, narrow collars which can be fastened only with a buttonhook; the evening clothes with jet buttons, velvet collars, and miles of wide tape; the gored, flowing overcoats with tight, broad belts just under the arm-pits;