Photoplay (Jan-Jun 1957)

How to be a "designing woman" Continued, from page 77 and money. But there are other limits. Much as I may like a particular style or color for a particular star, I always bear in mind that my creation must blend with the spirit of the film. There’s a greater need for discipline, sometimes, than inspiration. Being a successful clothes designer, however, is more than sitting at a desk with a pencil, a paper, a bolt of cloth and a waste basket. There are the very important consultations with the stars themselves. I want to know their ideas and preferences — not just to please them with a made-to-order wardrobe, but because, when I design, I consider the film as a whole. For example, if the leading lady has a violent personal objection to Vnecklines, I take pains to avoid V-neck iines. Otherwise the star will feel unattractive in the scene and will not do her best. A situation of this sort occurred with Dolores Gray. Dolores plays a chic Broadway star in “Designing Woman,” and wears clothes beautifully. So for a particular shot, I decided to create a dramatic orange-red lounging robe. Then I spoke ! with Dolores. She hates orange-red. Out j it went. My lounging robe turned up in hydrangea blue, and Dolores was much happier. So was I, because the scene turned out extremely well. All of Dolores’ clothes in the picture were pleasant to work on, mostly because she dressed to the hilt in every scene. I tried for a certain theatrical dash— and achieved it, I think, in striking colors, interesting ensembles, exciting hats, furs and jewelry. And, since Dolores has a small waist, I was careful to accentuate this in every part of her wardrobe. In designing Lauren Bacall’s styles, I again kept personal preferences in mind. [ know that she is partial to violet, so I used this color as much as possible. Lauren wears a silk violet hostess gown, violet pajamas and a violet hat. Because she looks so well in soft beige and sand tones, [ also used these colors, spiced with black, in several ensembles. It is wonderful to work with Lauren. She has a remarkable flair for clothes, perhaps because she was once a professional model and knows how to show them off to advantage. I took extra-special pleasure with Lauj ren’s wardrobe because her role permitted me to design a full range of styles from casual sportswear to sophisticated evening gowns. I am happy to say that they are fashions which the average girl can adapt for her own wear. There was, for example, a business suit required in one of the scenes. I worked out an idea in black broadcloth with an old-fashioned jerkin top and buttons down the back. For a casual sport dress, I designed a simple, off-white silk shirtmaker number, and gave it long sleeves buttoned with sapphire cuff links. It was my favorite creation for Lauren in this picture, particularly when she wore it with the accessories — white linen shoes and a large pale blue handbag. I was proud of the blend of colors here, the whites, the blues, and the tawny shade of Lauren’s hair, which was worn long and loosely brushed. As an added touch of excitement to my “Designing Woman” assignment, Photoplay chose four of the costumes I created for the film as the subjects for its big “Win a Trip to Hollywood” contest. I understand that four lucky girls who name the costumes most appropriately will be given an all-expenses-paid trip to Hollywood via American Airlines and a chance to live like a movie star for five days. What fun for them! To reach the point where one can actually become a “designing woman” for motion pictures takes a long period of apprenticeship. I have fitted, pressed, sewed, sketched, modeled and sold dresses as part of that apprenticeship. Some designers have skipped the preliminary stages. In my opinion, however, they have not gained thereby. Well-rounded experience in the garment field, it seems to me, is desirable training. General education is also a great help. To the girl who asks me whether to go to art school or college, I would first advise college — with a healthy amount of fine arts and art history studies. I would also suggest learning to sew and fit in a home economics course. Then there is the study of drama; a really good designer must have a dramatic flair. With all this, I will not say that the way is necessarily easy. There is a great deal of competition and a great deal more to learn, not only about the tools of the designer’s trade, but about getting along with people. There may be years of struggle. But success, when it comes, is rewarding. It is well worth it. The End SEE: Lauren Bacall and Dolores Gray in M-G-M's "Designing Woman," You Can't Afford to Miss PHOTOPLAY'S May Travel Issue • Details of an exciting "Win a Trip to Hollywood" Contest j • How to travel like a "Designing Woman" — where to go in California, what to do and see, how much it will cost • A wardrobe of travel fashions designed for you, inspired 1 by M-G-M's "Designing Woman" Get May PHOTOPLAY April 4 WHERE TO BUY PHOTOPLAY STAR FASHIONS To buy fashions shown on pages 73-76, write manufacturer or nearest store listed below, men tioning Photoplay, and enclosing a clipping of the item you wish to order. Lawrence of London raincoat LOS anceles, calif. — J. W. Robinson ( coat only) new York, N.Y. — Bonwit Teller Main Street raincoat Indianapolis, IND. — fm. H. Block or write, Main Street Fashions, 500 Seventh Avenue, New York 18, N.Y. Red Ball Weather proof ers slicker louisville, ky. — Zellner’s, Inc. new YORK, n.y. — Life Rainwear Co., Inc. reading, pa. — Pomeroy’s Milner raincape and coal Brooklyn, n.y. — Martin’s or write, Milner Rainwear Co., 512 Seventh Avenue, New York 18, N.Y, Town Creations raincoat At Saks Fifth Avenue stores in CHICAGO, ILL. DETROIT, MICH. NEW YORK, N.Y. PHILADELPHIA, PA. PITTSBURGH, PA. ST. LOUIS, MO. SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF. WHITE PLAINS, N.Y. and all other Saks Fifth Avenue store* Sherbrooke canvas raincoat BALTIMORE, MD. — Hutzler’s new YORK, n.y. — Macy’s paterson, n.j. — Meyer Brothers PHILADELPHIA, PA. — C. A. Rowell Sherbrooke dotted raincoat new YORK, n.y. — Macy’s paterson, n.j.— Meyer Brothers ST. PAUI,, MINN. — The Emporium Zanesville, OHIO — The H. Weber Sons Si Co Dotti Original striped Moose BALTIMORE, MD. — Hutzler’s CINCINNATI, OHIO Shillito’s columbus, OHIO — F. & R. Lazarus Newark, N.j. — L. Bamberger & C®. new York, n.y. — Franklin Simon Opera batiste blouse Brooklyn, n.y. — Abraham & Straus LOS ANGELES, CALIF. — Silverwoods Ship ’n Shore striped shirt Miami, fla. — Burdine’s or write. Ship ’n Shore, Inc., 1350 Broadway, New York 18, N.Y. Dotti Original eyelet Mouse Baltimore, MD. — Hutzler’s CINCINNATI, OHIO — Shillito’s columbus, ohio — F. & R. Lazarus Newark, n.j. — L. Bamberger & C®. new York, n.y. — Franklin Simon New Era print Mouse CLEVELAND, OHIO — The May Co. or write. New Era Shirt Co., 901 Lucas Avenue, St. Louis 1, Mo. Ship *n Shore pique Mouse ^ Atlanta, GA. — Rich’s, Inc. Miami, fla.— Burdine’s NEW HAVEN. CONN. — Mallev’s 81 I