The Photo-Play Journal (Jul 1919-Feb 1921)

40 P h o i to P I a v Journal "FREEDOM OF THE KNEES!" Trousers for Women is Screen Star's Plea By MAE MURRAY THE famous man who several centuries ago said, "Give me liberty or give me death," gave a pre-release of what I would like to shout from the top of the Woolworth Tower. Freedom for all women I want freedom in clothes, from the shackled and docile fashion mannikins to scrubwomen and laundresses. Freedom from tight skirts that trip one as she crawls ; from binding sleeves that restrict the graceful and comfortable movements of the arms; from stabbing stays ; from toothpick heels that make one look — and feel — as though she walks on stilts. Freedom from uninteresting navy blues and murky browns. Perhaps it ought to be said in a whisper, but my greatest delight is to come home after a hard day's work in the studio, throw off my clothes and climb into trousers. Yes, regular trousers. I always wear them in the house instead of negligees, and it certainly is a delight to get all comfy on a chaise lounge and tuck one's feet under one without fear of tearing some old lace or ribbons. They are real Chinese affairs, with which are worn little coatees in satins, brocades, gold cloth and all colors. I must admit I would like to wear them on the street. Since I have what is called a "boyish" figure, never think of daring such a waistline, because 1 a "normal" one. I like to shift the line a few inches below that generally accepted point and put on a loose belt or sash. This "normal" waistline is reached at its worst in an inside blouse and skirt. It is trying to wear this and still look small-hipped, supple and slim. And what is more offensive and disconcerting than a blouse's "tail" eternally creeping out of a woman's skirt — and at such inopportune moments ! This season the over-blouse is quite in vogue, and I hope to see lots of women go in for it. If only they would be convinced how much more graceful their lines are ; still more, realize how much more comfortable they feel, and vow, solemnly, to ever and hereafter have one of these blouses in their wardrobe. The tendency toward sleeves on the kimono plan, especially the short ones, is so sensible. There's no doubt that they are a blessing for girls who work in offices and always have to put false cuffs on their long, tight sleeves, which hinder them in free movements at their typewriters or filing cabinets. I always have my sleeves fashioned on the kimono style, putting in little variations in the way of net undersleeves and lace. There's a volume to be said about blondes and colors. A lot of them go through life wishing and wishing that they were as fortunate as brunettes and could wear any color Mae wouldn't give us a picture o about, but these light blue />aja their zvide lace sleeves are 1 would haven't they pleased. What they ought to do is get a frock of each desired color and see how becoming it would be to them. Blondes can wear nearly every color — especially those blondes with very white skin, and the blondes that don't have white skin are so rare they aren't worth considering. White, is my favorite color — white without the slightest touch of color. Somehow, white seems to bring out all of the real essence of a blonde person, just like purple shows off to best advantage a brunette. I know that most blondethink they should have a tiny bit of color with an all-white frock, but, in my opinion, there is no need for it. I love colors and wear them to my heart's delight. I hate — absolutely . hate — navy blue. Where other women put navy blues in their wardrobe I hang blacks. When I wear blackI always have a bit of color about me. such a beaded bag of yellowy-red shade. T love those yellow-reds so much, especially if I need something to cheer me up. American beauty is not becoming to me. Neither is purple. I don't like colors that have no definition to them. But, I reiterate, blondes can wear nearly all colors. Women look best in sport clothes and their variations and summer frocks. Of course, no universal style can be set for them, but they must be made to suit individual needs. Personally, my summer wardrobe always includes some skirts of bridal satin, which I love, and with which T wear cute coatees of different colored silks and velvets. I don't vary my summer costumes so very much, as there are certain styles and materials that always convey summer to me. I always have a number of chiffons with handpainted flowers on them, which are made loose and cool. There's a white chiffon in my frocks this summer that has orange and blue wool embroidery on it— on the bottom of the skirt and on the front of the waist. With it I wear a big hat with wool flowers. There is also an adorable gingham and velvet suit, made on the Eton style, which, I understand, has been associated with me. The skirt is green plaid gingham and cuffs and collar are of the same material. The coat is green velvet. I think it is a cute costume. But if I had my choice, I'd not write of dresses at all. Dresses have grace, beauty of line, and are characteristically feminine. And they have their place, at formal affairs, at theatres, and similar occasions. But if I were head of the Dressmakers' Soviet, and a decree of mine could change the styles, I would decree trousers. Not the stiff, ugly trouserthat men wear, but roomy trousers, in varicolors, ending just above the knees, with perhaps a bloomer effect. And women would have more genuine freedom than the vote would give them — they would have freedom of the knees ! / the trousers she has written mas of brocaded silk with a pretty good substitute