Photoplay (Jul-Dec 1951)

• BY RENA FIRTH • Dark-haired, eyed Helen Rose, ented M-G-M designer, has a flair for young, smart clothes — like the jumper dress used on our pattern page and which Liz Taylor wore in “Love Is Better Than Ever.” The designs Helen creates for Liz, June Allyson. Jane Powell, Diana Lynn and others are so popular, she receives almost as much fan mail as they do. Discussing fall fashions with Helen, we learned a lot of things you’ll want to know. And some tips for the girls who make their own clothes. Right now, we’re warning you to watch those figure lines — for. in Helen’s opinion, waists will he nipped more than ever, which means accent on hips and bosoms! Skirts will have more of a bell-shaped look — peg tops will he prominent. “Weskits.” predicts Helen, “will he popular because they accent the waistline. Shoulders will be sloped with just enough padding to look natural.” About the important question of hem lines. Helen says they will remain short, somewhere between fourteen and fifteen inches. However, she feels the most becoming length to any woman is at the broad part of the calf of the leg — and that differs with the individual. “In making screen clothes,” says Helen, “we try to keep up with fashion and yet design clothes becoming to the star. And that goes for the hem length, too!” Helen, personally, deplores man-tailored suits, revived this spring, thinks they make women look old and too masculine.. This fall, however, she believes they will be replaced by softer, more feminine suits — suits with shorter jackets and rounder hiplines, fitted snugly at the waistline. Short boxy jackets for the young girls will be even shorter than usual. As for colors, watch for something new in the “caviar range — from purple through gray and teal into black, having an over-all iridescent effect. Green will be popular, also brown worn with a soft pink. Designer Helen was only fifteen when she went to work for a costume company in Chicago. Two months later she was designing gay dance costumes for a big producer in the East. Three years later she was in Hollywood, designing period clothes. Marriage and a baby temporarily halted her career, but in 1942. M-G-M signed her to a contract and she’s been going ’ahead steadily ever since. For the women who make their own clothes. Helen has this advice. To avoid that home-made look, she believes one of the most important items to have is a dressmaker figure, padded to measurements. “Even if it costs a fair amount, it’s worth it,” Helen declares, “because you can give your clothes a much better fit." And. “Beware of that hemline!” she warns. That’s the place that reveals whether a dress is home-made or not, if it isn’t done well. “Even though it takes more time, it’s worth it to measure and mark the skirt with pins or chalk, then baste the hem in. Then, try the dress on again to make certain it is right before stitching. Use a small needle and pick up just a thread of the cloth.” Because buttonholes can be tricky, it’s best to take them to a professional. And for that final touch. “Taking a home-made dress to a good cleaner and having it thoroughly pressed after it is made is often the difference between the professional and non-professional look,” says Helen. And she ought to know! Helen Rose. M-G-M designer SMART FOR YOUR AGE darktal /O'-1 U1,c you can buy PHOTOPLAY FASHIONS If the preceding pages do not list the stores in your vicinity where the Photoplay Fashions are sold, please write to the manufacturers listed below: • When ordering patterns, make certain of receiving the correct size by consulting the table of measurements below: Misses Sizes 12 to 20 Corduroy weskit and wool skirt Sheer dress with detachable collar Ordei size. 12 14 16 18 20 Shirley Lee Pat Hartley if hips are 33 35 37 39 41 in. 1641 Washington Avenue 1400 Broadway if waist is 25 261/, 28 30 32 in. St. Louis, Mo. New York, N. Y. Voile dress with tucked skirt if bust is... 30 32 34 36 38 in. Reversible plaid weskit and rayon flannel skirt Rosenthal & Kalman McArthur 1400 Broadway Junior Sizes 9 to 19 1372 Broadway Neiv York, N. Y. New York, A'. Y. Picture hats Order size. 11 13 15 17 19 String gloves Brandt if hips are 32 34 36 38 40 in. If ear Right 1 West 39th Street 29 31 244 Madison Ave. New York. N. Y. if waist is.. 24 y2 25 y2 27 in. New York. N. Y. if bust is.... 29 31 33 35 37 in. 67