Photoplay (Jan-Jun 1920)

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Clothes PHAtoolav M ■: HP and Good Taste By ELSIE FERGUSON "It is not what \ you wear so much as how^ you w^ear it." THERE is no doubt in my mint! that the average woman is more interested in the fashions displayed in motion picture productions than in the plots! This is not always the fault of the plots, but often times to the credit of the fashions. For an enormous variety of clothes are exhibited in a first-class picture. Expense is not considered at all, so that every detail is perfected, and as a rule the models worn are advanced creations from Paris, or from the best modistes of America. Before the war, it would have been presumptuous for any American fashion authority to attempt to foretell the modes, without having first consulted the creator of all modes: Paris. At that time the French creations were the first and last word in smart attire, and no American designer would have denied the superior judgment of the Parisienne artistes. With the advent of the war, however, and the curtailed transportation facilities, many Manhattan designers were forced to create special models of their own, which soon became as popular, in their original appeal and far greater suitability to American woman, as the modified Paris fashions. Stimulated by the success of their efforts in this direction, the New York designers have been encouraged to create a greater variety of models, until today a number of smart establishments offer exhibitions of their original designs, following the practise of the great French houses. It is a significant feature in the development of American styles, and I for one am heartily glad to note this progress. It does not at all presage a lack of interest in French fashions as one might hastily assume, but rather signifies the perfect combination of American and French ideas. There has been a tendency in the past few years to wear garments from other countries, without modifying or altering them to suit American ideas. The vogue for Spanish shawls, for instance, or the Mandarin coats for evening wraps, has flourished in recent vears. The senorita wears her shawl with Campbell Studios a certain grace which cannot of course be emulated, and without which the shawl is lifeless and unattractive. The Chinaman glides along in his Mandarin coat, giving it an air of Oriental dignity which would be ridiculous for an Occidental woman even to attempt to imitate. On the other hand, many fareastern ideas may be cleverly adapted for American fashions. The lovely beadwork, embroideries, and fascinating color schemes that have found their way to us from the Orient, have not failed in their purpose to give beauty to our garments. The long fringe which has been so popular during the past season was surely borrowed from the Spanish shawl, and served its purpose in grace and allurement when combined with an American frock or wrap. Stage clothes, like foreign garments, should be modified slightly, to make them suitable for private wear. It very often follows that costumes used on the stage and in motion pictures do not look at all extreme because they harmonize so perfectly with the settings. As a rule a clever actress carries her clothes with a nonchalance which is too subtle for the average person to observe, but if the garments were copied exactly, and worn without that poise, would lose their charm. 57