Photoplay (Jan-Jun 1920)

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The leading designers of New York and Paris today admit the movies are creating the styles — not merely following them. Redingote derivation from a Worth model i Every discerning woman knows she can draw on any period of style to enhance her good looks."' What "Fashion" Really Means The first of a series of articles by the screen's acknowledged leader of fashions. By NORMA TALMADGE WHEN I was a very small girl I used to shut myself up with my dollies on a rainy day and discuss clothes with them. Very gravely the dolls and I would go over the subject of new clothes — with me as the active spokesman — or, maybe I should say spokeswoman. If we weren't interrupted we generally got the winter or summer wardrobe fairly settled before it was time for me to set the table for supper. After settling what we should wear it was up to me to get into mother's good graces for the necessary materials. Many a sinkful of dishes have I washed for the sake of a coveted bit of lace or scrap of silk that meant a party frock for Arabella. The opportunity to make my first appearance in pictures came just about the time I was through playing with dolls, and for quite some time the only chance I have had to talk clothes has been in regard to my own wardrobe or the gowns of Mother or Constance or Natalie. And then the editor of Photoplay asked me one day if I didn't want to be his fashion editor, and talk once a month to all you people about clothes and style, and why one wears a certain gown for certain occasions and what fashion really means. Would I? I should say so! I'm awfully grateful to Mr. Quirk for asking me, for, between you and me, I have lots of ideas about fashions that aren't usually put into print, and every time the editor isn't looking I'm going to tell you some of them. In the first place I think it might be a good idea if we look at this word "fashion" and think what it really means. You say it is the "fashion to wear embroidered dresses" just as our grandmothers used to say it was "the fashion to wear bustles." But why are certain things "the fashion" at one period? Why do styles recur at certain intervals? Where do fashion influences have their origin? If you want to be a well-dressed woman — and every normal woman does — you should learn the answers to these questions. I had to find out the answers for myself when I was studying style from the standpoint of the screen. 64 The history of this suit may be traced back to the ruffles~and-lace days of King Louis XIV.