Photoplay (Jul-Dec 1938)

qn >*" Photography by Madi^un Lacy Orry-Kelly, famous designer for Warner Brothers, and Kay Francis photographed during a wardrobe conference for Kay's newest film "Unlawful" BY GWENN WALTERS "THE time has come," the Walrus said, "To talk of many things: Of shoes — and ships — and sealing wax — Of cabbages — and kings — " — of sad farewell to summer — of glamorous approach to fall! Gee, that's fun to start a letter with the first thing that comes to mind instead of struggling to come upon a supposedly "right" beginning! The decided contrast between this warm summery day and my wintry fashion thoughts has, undoubtedly, thrust me into this chameleon-like mood of work and play. However, you'll have to agree that work seasoned with play gives sure sanity to living. Now to work! This month I bring you, as promised, OrryKelly's fall fashion forecast to guide you in planning your new wardrobe. "Will skirts be shorter for fall, Orry?" I chided as I stuck my head into his workshop and discovered him designing costumes for Bette Davis to wear in "The Sisters." . "You think you're only kidding, Gwenn, but I'm glad you asked that question, for I should like to voice my views on skirt lengths," he replied, extending a welcoming hand. And so our interview began. *°<<e *6^ sh{ slir c*< t>rOWn higi 9reen. IN Orry-Kelly's opinion there can be no set standard for skirt lengths (such as fourteen, fifteen or sixteen inches from the floor) for the reason that the smartest skirt length varies with the varying physical attributes of each particular person. The season's fashionable skirt length will be, therefore, the length that most becomes one's physical attributes. Next we come to the all-important silhouette trends for fall. For daytime, skirts will be slim, waistlines neatly defined, shoulders moderately squared, bustlines accentuated and necklines high. Black, of course, will lead the color selection. However, browns and greens in many varying tones, wine red and deep plum will be chic high style alternates. Wool jersey will be a very outstanding fabric. The decoration of frocks will be second only to their styling, color and fabric selection, for every frock must boast its own individualization of trim. Braid, fur and embroidery motifs will share honors with costume jewelry accent. Tri-color combinations will be evidenced in costumes for active and spectator sports. Smart combinations will be found in green, yellow and brown; red, green and wine; brown, lacquered red and blue green. Orry-Kelly has designed a grand three-piece suit of the first combination. The background of the boxy, three-quarter length topcoat is brown with slub yarn shadow plaid of green and yellow. The skirt of the suit is matching brown, and the contrast jacket of yellow. oPORTS frocks, one or two piece, will also boast decorative trim, suedes and soft leathers being favorites for inset or applique motifs. Leather closings and belts likewise will be smart accessory. Slim coats, exquisitely tailored, furless and collarless, will become perfect foil for separate fur scarfs. These coats, on occasion, will have contrast yokes and sleeves like the one OrryKelly has created for Kay Francis to wear in "Unlawful." The foundation of Kay's coat is of smooth brown woolen; the yoke and sleeves are of rust. The sleeves are seven-eighth length, straight and open. There will be a drastic change in fur fashions. The bulky coats of last year will be replaced by slim coats of sleek furs. For evening we will find the return of the "little" jacket made of the gown fabric. This fitted, waist-length jacket will most probably have a tiny peplum. It will most surely have neatly squared shoulders, three-quarter, open sleeves, and no collar. The Nautch influence will make its appearance in dressy afternoon, dinner and evening gowns. The graceful folds that swath the hipline of this style will be caught up in front and thence released into fluid fulness which falls to the hemline. This draping will be modified in the dressy afternoon frocks. LATER in the afternoon I visited Edith Head, designer for Paramount, currently creating clothes for Joan Bennett to wear in "Artists And Models Abroad." Two costumes nearing completion will interest you, I know. One is a dinner gown of ice blue. The slim, slit skirt is topped by a jumper of bugle beads fashioned like a little sweater. The other outfit is of deep green velvet. The frock, two-piece with self-fabric dressmaker detail, has a matching hat created by Dache. Miss Head contrasts this costume with bag and gloves of absinthe green. There will be an extravagant Paris Exposition fashion show in this picture. The "Exposition" gowns have been brought to Hollywood by Lillian Fisher from eight of the leading French couturiers. These gowns, however, are strictly show pieces and are in no way intended to represent smart Paris fashion. A fashion angle also invades the Twentieth Century-Fox production, "My Lucky Star," which gives Sonja Henie the role of a college shop model. Royer, who designed Sonja's chic wardrobe, offers many helpful suggestions for school clothes. "Before purchasing a single garment for a school wardrobe," says he, "consider these generalities. Select fabrics most importantly for their non-crushable qualities — this will save untold pennies on the cleaning and pressing bill ... Be sure and plan your budget to include several odd sweaters and blouses, smart costume jewelry, novel belts, and a couple of sets of decorative accessories — you'll find they will happily and smartly reassemble your basic costumes." Sonja Henie wears one of Royer's sweater and skirt outfits on page 63. Don't miss it — or her — in "My Lucky Star." 74