Radio broadcast .. (1922-30)

Practical Pointers on Cabinet Wood-Finishing 255 look as if an expensive natural-colored wood were used. In wood finishing, much trouble in working will be avoided by the purchase of the best stains and materials obtainable. There are two kinds of stains on the market: water and oil stains, each having their good points. Oil stains are those in which the coloring pigment is dissolved in linseed oil or turpentine; water is the solvent for the other. As pine wood in some cases has more or less sap, this wood, after being colored with an oil or waterstain when dry, should have two coats of white shellac varnish applied, each coat to be lightly sandpapered after drying. This shellac coating effectually keeps any sap from discoloring the finish; varnishing, rubbing down, and polishing can then follow. The best way to use water or oil-stains is to apply them with a brush and then rub them into the wood with a piece of cheese-cloth. This distributes the color evenly and absorbs surplus moisture (which in the case of water-stains is apt to raise the grain of wood, thus making more sandpapering necessary) and also makes a uniform color tone. If the first application does not give as deep a color as is desired, give it another one. If you want to use an open-grain wood, such as mahogany or walnut, and use a stain to make it deeper in color, the pores will have to be filled after staining. Otherwise staining can be omitted; but the filling is necessary. Supposing that such a wood has been stained; get a paste filler of a color to match the stain as nearly as possible; put some filler on a small piece of cotton cloth and rub it on the wood. As soon as this filler has dried a little (don't let it get hard) continue to rub the surface until all pores have been filled up, rubbing off the surplus, the idea being to have nothing but the pores contain filler. After it is dry and smooth, give it a coat of white shellac varnish. This should be rather thin, and may be diluted with alcohol if desired. All surplus varnish must be wiped off the brush before applying it to the surface, for if too thick a coating is applied, it will not During National Radio Week, December 23rd to 30th, special concerts and addresses will be put on by broadcasting stations throughout the coantry, and everyone will have a chance to hear exceptionally fine programmes. Get your set in shape well in advance, so that you will be able to reach out and provide entertainment for yourself and your friends from many miles away during these Christmas holidays. — THE EDITOR. be clear enough to allow the stain to show. The first coat of shellac will take about three hours to dry, after which you should apply another one. Rub the dried surface with fine sandpaper until the wood is smooth. Don't rub it too hard or you will cut through the shellac. Varnishing comes next. Good brushes should be used as cheap ones are generally coarse and shed their bristles. The varnish must not be too cold as this prevents it from flowing freely. Have only enough varnish on the brush to give a level coating when it is brushed across the grain. Finish off by rubbing lightly, with the grain, letting it dry thirty hours, or until thoroughly hard. Purchase some FF grade pumice stone at a paint store; likewise a rubbing felt. Dip the latter into linseed i oil, then into pumice stone which will now adhere to the felt. Rub the varnished surface lightly along the grain. Continue this process until all small depressions have disappeared. This may be ascertained by looking diagonally over the surface when it is held to the light. All hollow places will now show as dark spots. The surplus pumice stone should be carefully removed with a soft cloth. Give it another coating of varnish and let it dry, then repeat the operation with the pumice stone. The cabinet will have a dead, non-glossy finish. Those who prefer a shining polish can easily obtain it by dipping a piece of felt into linseed oil and into powdered rotten stone (to be bought at a paint store) and going over the surface in the same manner as with the pumice stone. A higher polish can be obtained on the last coat by giving it the rotten stone treatment, and then rubbing the hard varnish with a soft cloth dipped into linseed oil, using plenty of "elbow-grease" until a high polish is obtained. The surplus should be wiped off with a chamois skin. The above gives a durable finish; one that will not scar easily. If all the work has been done carefully, you will have a neat-looking cabinet that will be envied by your friends who have not learned polishing work, which is quite easy when you know how to do it.