Screenland (Nov 1930-Apr 1931)

for November 1930 127 OUR COSMETIC URGE— Continued from page 55 of the stars of Hollywood and take them at their face value. There is Gloria Swanson, who shadows her eyelids and 'does things' to her eyelashes. She keeps a neatly plucked eyebrow and a carefully lip-sticked mouth. There is Greta, who goes natural right up to the eyelashes. Her lashes are aided and abetted by a strange seductive power rumored not to be of her own making. And we don't mean that they are mascara-ed, either ! Clara Bow has the baby eyes that are bigger and brighter for a little careful brushing and curling back of the lashes. She may use those new little eyelash curlers made on the principal of a curling iron. Lashes made to curl and touched with mascara are absolutely blameless. Anything may happen, and you can't hold them responsible though you know the eyes have 'it.' Beauty is skin-deep, but so few of us realize that skin has four layers of epidermis until the sun burns through one of them and gives a sunburn that is painful and ruinous. Sun-tan did not begin on Mary Garden's back at Antibes as popular report has it, but centuries ago. Four thousand years ago along the Nile, the Egyptians got all henna-ed up. Henna was brushed on the palms of the hands and used on feet and ankles. A nice tawny golden brown was considered the proper Egyptian color, and Cleopatra naturally lent her endorsement to the home-grown henna. Now-a-days, it is used to make the hair glossy, for it is not a hair dye, as so many people think. If you wonder how hair, especially dark hair, can look so glossy under the Kleig lights, you may be sure that some one has been using henna very skilfully. Sometimes, some one does have a new idea about cosmetics. There was Ethrelda. Ethrelda started patches. Not that , she meant that they should be used for the pomp and vanity of this world. On the contrary. Ethrelda, after the death of her worthy second husband, entered a convent and renounced the sins of this life along with soap and water, which were considered a frivolity. The result ruined her face! Her complexion lost that school-girl look. In her life of self-abnegation black patches on her face covering the blemishes seemed a disfigurement entirely fitting to her continual penance performance. When Ethrelda died she was canonized. Her followers wore the black patch to show their devotion to her. ' This was in the seventh century and history, in its repetitious mode, has been mentioning patches ever since right through the Victorian era. They have been used since Ethrelda's day not to call attention to religion, but rather to the rare texture, the superb curve and the beauty of the skin upon which it rests. Cosmetics have long been used to 'cover up.' Covering up year-marks is the most difficult task. "Beauty is at the fullest at thirty," asserts Madame Sevigne. In Hollywood, few care to admit that they are free, inclined to flesh, and very much over twenty-one. The rise of Kay Francis, a charming person who does not fit the usual 'girlygirl' formula, is leading the movies into an appreciation of be-yourself and actyour-age. 'Beauty is ageless' is a lovely axiom but no woman will grow older without the support of a few more facials, and a little more careful grooming — not if she knows her wrinkles ! Ever since Mary Pickford lost her curls and ceased to be sixteen, Hollywood has been having birthday parties. Ponce de Leon, of course, never should have gone to Florida looking for a fountain of eternal youth ; for it is at Hollywood — in the very life that makes exercise, dieting and make-up of the first importance. Despite the fact that long hair is said to add years, many in Hollywood are growing it. Eve's crowning glory was ably imitated by the seven Sutherland sisters who, you will remember, swept the floor with their tresses. Whether you are sold long or short on hair fashion you must agree that having it glossy and delicately — ever so delicately scented — is an advantage. Don't put eau de cologne on it for that's said to gray it, but a drop of scent in the rinse-water at shampoo time will give it a lingering evasive aroma that makes strong men stronger in your favor. As for superfluous hair. Suppose you had to make your own depilatory of ants' eggs? Suppose you had to stew and brew and perhaps burn this recipe before it was ready to use in order to be properly groomed for your evening gowns ? Imagine Delilah pouring over this potion that she made to take off Samson's hair because she lacked scissors? It's due to the cosmetic urge that these depilatories have been perfected. The French court developed cosmeticians who had mysterious formulas, excessive prices and a clientele of both men and women. Boudoirs of the court were elaborate salons where entertainment was held while the cosmetics were being applied. Not even Hollywood has thought of simulating a French boudoir with a carpet of silver foxes completely covering the floor. With toilet tables shrouded in Alencon lace over pink satin and tied with moire bows. In such a boudoir or a similar one, the Du Barry sat before her mirror scrutinizing her skin, testing the cream of one court cosmetician, comparing it with another. She commanded that little cream jars be made at Limoge with her initials painted on them in rosebuds and gold. The art of the perfumer was even more in demand, for the variety in odors was rather limited. Veritable trousseaux of perfume used to be part of the marriage agreements. Half the dowry of the maidens in Jewry, it was stipulated, was to be spent in perfumes. At no time in the past, if we are to believe the record, have there been more cosmetics used. Today, one may paint the finger nails different colors — orange, red, blue, purple. These colors are also applied to toe nails when pajamas are worn. Superfluous hair must be removed from under the arm before an evening dress can be put on; from the legs before chiffon stockings can be worn. A deep decolletage makes necessary massaging and powdering of the back. Permanent waves help to make the hair fluffy, yet it must be restrained by a carefully set water wave. Teeth must be cared for regularlv. Eyebrows must be shaped. Eyes must "be shadowed. Lashes mascara-ed. Cheeks rouged. Lips rouged. Ears pinked just a shade if they are to wear ear rings. Neck and arms creamed and powdered for evening. All these things come in the beauty routine yet so handily are they arranged that they require little thought if any, and with all this care, your beauty budget mounts to far less than that of Poppaea or the Du Barry. Face the cosmetic urge— and follow it! CLEAR, BRIGHT eyes in no time A few applications of harmless Murine will make your eyes much clearer and brighter than before. It reduces bloodshot veins and dissolves the dust-laden film of mucus that makes eyes look dull and lifeless. Murine positively contains no belladonna or any other injurious ingredient. 60c at drug and dep't stores. Try it! 1H eVes BeThe Man Behind the Camera LEARN Motion Picture Photography "Still" Photography Motion Picture Projection A D VENTURE — thrills — more action in l\ a week than the average man sees in a lifetime — AND BIG PAY, TOO. Opportunities everywhere await trained cameramen. Motion Picture Photography is just one of the big-paying branches of the billion-dollar photographic field. 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