Screenland (Nov 1934-Apr 1935)

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for January 1935 27 STARS authentic advice of Hollywood's the first article in our new series ideas of the world's supreme stylists Orry-Kelly's Eight Steps to Streamlining : 1. I gain the confidence of my subject. 2. I design a "sample" creation. 3. I never force an issue. 4. I discount beauty — entirely! I find intelligence, a well-porportioned figure, and style-sense equally valuable. I ban an audience during fittings. 7. I substitute richness for glitter. I avoid fads. Orry-Kelly, celebrated Hollywood designer of wonderful — and weara b 1 e! — c lo t h e s ,w ho guides you to chic in this feature, first of a series. By Helen Harrison you can go home and try it out on your own chassis. It's a chance not to be missed ! To that purpose he has formulated his certain-to-be-famous "eight steps to streamlining"— simple, but revealing. And now, wouldn't it be thrilling to crash the studio gates and have Orry-Kelly show you, step-by-step, the secret of his genius, explaining his methods in his own words ? Let's go ! "More than any other one thing," says Orry-Kelly, "it is vital that a designer gain the confidence of his subject before launching himself on the task of originating a new wardrobe. My own method is to suggest to the player that I design one 'sample' dress for a certain occasion — a formal tea, an ocean voyage, an elaborate dinner — whatever is agreeable to both of us. This has invariably been successful in gaining the faith, and above all, the confidence of the star. "But I think it extremely unwise to 'force' an issue. When a star insists upon revising a design I bow to her preferences. Usually she is very gracious in admitting the error of her persistence when the dress is completed — and I am then able to revise the costume before it is seen on the screen. Thus the point is (Continued on page 90) i