Screenland (Nov 1934-Apr 1935)

90 SCREENLAND Learn to Draw at Home New Method Makes It Amazingly Simple Trained artists earn from $50 to over $'250 a week. Tremendous demand right now for good art work. Magazines, newspapers, advertisers, printing houses, etc. Become an artist through wonderful new easy method of personalized instruction — right at home in spare time. Learn Illustrating, Designing and Cartooning. Actual fun learning this way. Learn to draw and earn hig money I Send for FREE BOOK Just printed — a new book which describes the latest developments and wonderful opportunities in Commercial Art gives full details on this new easy method of learning'to draw. Tells all about our students — their successes —what they say — actual reproductions of their worK — and how many earned big money even while learning! Write for this Free Book and details of big Commercial Artist's Outfit GIVEN to all new students. Mail postcard or letter WASHINGTON SCHOOL OF ART Studio 171 1115 15th St., N.W.. Washington, P. C. i Here's a Qjueer Way . to Learn Music/ No teacher— no confusing details. Just a simple, easy, homestudy method. Takes only a few minutes— averages only a few cents a day. Every step is clear as ABO throughout. You'll be surprised at your own rapid progress From the start you are playing real rimes perfectly by note. Quickly learn to play any "jazz" or classical selection— right at home in your spare time. All instruments. Learn Public Speaking At home — In spare time — 20 minutes a day. Overcome "stagefright," gain selfconfidence, increase your salary . through ability to sway others by effective speech. Write now for free booklet. How to Work Wottdera With Words. North American Institute, Dept. 4431 3601 Michigan Avenue, Chicago, ill. Streamlining the Stars Continued from page 27 CD CP Send for Free Booklet and Demonstration Lesson, r IXLjEi These explain our wonderful home study method fully. Mention instrument preferred. U. S. School of Music 1191 Brunswick Bldg., Ne» York Cilv TryThis OnVfcur Hair IS Days Let Your Mirror Prove Results. Your hair need not thin out, nor need you become bald. This; Different Method stops i \ > J thinning out of hair, lifeless hair, itching,dandruff. threatened or increasing baldness by Btrenzthenine prolonging the life of hair for men and women; Hena your name now before it's too late for free 15-day test offer JUEL DENNi 404 W. Erie St., Dept. 33, Chicago, III. SJKLTIET paid by Music Publishers and Talking Picture Producers. Free booklet describes most complete song service ever offered. Hit writers will revise, arrange, compose music to your lyric, or lyrica to your music, »eoure U. S. copyruhl . broadcast your »„1 oyer the radio. Our sales department submit, to_MlD» KmVT and Hollywood Picture Studio,. WftlTE TODAY (or FREE BOOKLET. UNIVERSAL SONG SERVICE, 604 Meyer Bldg.. Wtslern Afenue and Sierra Vela. HaHrwMJ. Califoinii ene s-sa TKeaire „. Lee Traoy. Fred Drama, Dance, Musical Comedy. For Catalog, write Sec'y LAND. 66 W. 85 St., N. ■ • SCHOOL OF THE f40thYr.) Stage. Talkie, Radio. GRADUATES: Astaire. Una Merkel, Zita Johann^etc Teaching, Directing. Personal /Appearances) gained with the judgment of the designer trusted more implicitly than if ever he had 'gone to war' in the first place. "When a star is first placed in my charge I naturally make a mental survey of her good and of her weaker points. On the other hand, after reviewing my years as a designer for the glamorous ones, I reaffirm, without hesitation, a discovery which I made shortly after entering the designing field: that is, the more intelligent a subject is, the easier she is to dress. A well-proportioned figure is vastly more important than beauty— and when coupled with intelligence and a style sense— the ensemble of requirements for the well-dressed woman is indeed complete. "Such a woman must also have the assurance of her ability to wear clothes. She must not be hampered by any real or imaginary shortcomings of her figure, nor must she be headstrong about the inclusion of her own preconceived ideas of a costume. She must be something between the two; she must have faith in the creator of her costumes, and the assurance of wearing them with an impeccable flair. "And you, too, back in your own home, before your own mirror, be honest with yourself! Study your points, ruthlessly, impersonally, as I study the stars. You know pretty much what you 'have.' You have been told. Don't try to gloss over this or overlook that. Your mirror doesn't; neither do your escorts. Bare yourself to your own honesty. Take stock. "Don't worry about your beauty. Are you well-proportioned? Have you a stylesense ? You probably have, or you wouldn't be so interested in the subject. Well, start from there ! If you are poorly proportioned make every effort, through moderate exercise, proper diet, and, above all, skillful gowning, to play up your best points — you will be amazed how such minor defects as you may have will disappear. "At the studio, friends, relatives, or wellmeaning advisers are on the 'no admittance' list during fittings. Stage mothers, or their equivalent, have been the death of many a good idea. With the star, the director, and the cameraman to please, or at least to consider, a designer has a man-sized job on his hands with each individual costume. Multiply that by the number of women players and the number of gowns required for their screen needs in the course of a year, and you have an approximate idea of the conditions under which he works. "So it is but natural that each designer enjoys his work best when creating a costume for a woman whose reaction is one of interest and enthusiasm. And in this respect I have been most fortunate. "This season's clothes, let me say here and now, have been particularly smart. The new tendency toward streamlining in our lives — automobiles, trains, interior decorating— has found a sympathetic note in current clothes. Women with the gadgets of former days would seem incongruous in the long, svelte lines of their newest town car. This gives a new note and subtly influences our clothes-sense. It demands a gown that is 'down-to-earth.' It demands, too, that the tinsel and glitter of the past decade — the birthday cake, Christmas-tree type of chi-chi that was formerly synonymous with 'Hollywood styles' — quickly disappear from the cinematic horizon. Put on — not your old gray bonnet, but your air-brakes! "Richness and luxury in costuming no longer is conveyed by a dress of glistening beads; and unless a certain role implies a portion of glitter in the clothes, my prefer ence is to omit it all and substitute a fabric, conservative, durable, in a word, 'smart.' My own particular favorite is a heavy crepe romaine. You may find another which you prefer. But be certain it is 'glitterless !' "Perhaps you may recall that in 'Mandalay' I conceived a costume for Kay Francis made entirely of gold sequins. This was the exception which proves the rule — or best serves as the example. Spot White, the character she portrayed in the film, demanded this costume. It was emblematic of her strata of society, of her 'personal' status. "This new reconditioning of our clothes conception offers the girl in Winnipeg, Mexico City, Rome or Melbourne the opportunity to snatch ideas off the screen and adapt them to her individual wardrobe. Streamlining has the universal appeal of the modern age and is not a confining influence in any sense of the word. Designing, therefore, such clothes as are wearable by a business girl or a society woman, whose prototype is costumed in a Warner picture, is my sole ambition at the moment. If that goal is reached I am quite willing to forego the temporary fame of launching a fad that sweeps the nation. "And speaking of fads, let me urge women whose wardrobe budgets are limited to exercise the greatest restraint when tempted to purchase a dress, a coat, or a hat whose chief appeal is its striking novelty. That very momentary appeal will be the quality that will find it outmoded six months hence. "And this brings me to the most important rule that women, everywhere, any time, should apply — mark it and mark it well! "If, instead of purchasing a garment because of its features which make it the rage of the moment, a garment were chosen because of its chances for remaining smart six months from now, that woman would be the best-dressed woman the whole year 'round! "If you have a natural propensity for fads try to' confine them to one costume — and I will tell you how to indulge your taste and still keep within your budget. Here's the secret : "Buy one rather plain costume and use it as the basis for all your fad orgies. If the style of the moment is a tri-cornered scarf, buy one and wear it on that dress — but keep it for that one exclusively. Then as that fad changes and batiste ruffs and huge batiste cuffs float into momentary favor as women's whimsy — just buy a pair and use the same garment for your metamorphosis. Thus you will have an outlet for your willo'-the-wisp fancies — and buy the main portion of your wardrobe 'sensibly.' " So much for Orry-Kelly's steps to streamlining. Now let him talk with you. informally, of the things which lie nearest to his heart — and yours ! "Have you the faculty which a truly stunning woman must have, of bringing life to clothes ? The next time you see Kay Francis — who has been my consistent nominee for the title of the best-dressed woman on the screen — notice what she is wearing. I don't care whether it is an evening gown, sleek and slivery, or an afternoon frock, with a saucy air, or even a smart little utility dress — she combines an ideal figure (from a designer's point of view), with an innate clothes sense that transforms the simplest gown into a creation of animated style. Perhaps you do this, too? It is mostly heaven-sent; but, to some extent, it may be acquired. Be con