Shadowland (Sep 1919-Feb 1920)

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Smadowland ness, but now she is content with squirrel, kolinsky, silver fox, seal and chinchilla which is very costly. Fur coats are of simpler lines than last year's modes. The belts, the frock-like lines are no more. There is not a vestige of them in the dolmans, cape-manteaus, or the youthful silhouette of the Russian blouse so popular this season. Kolinsky is as much liked as ever and is especially adapted to the smartly circular cape and, we might add, that when one finds silver threads among the old brown of kolinsky it doesn't mean that kolinsky is growing old, on the contrary, it is being extremely new. The kolinsky scarf is one of the popular furs for neck wear. If trimmed with four tails it may be worn in many interesting ways. The straight scarf of brown fox is very much liked in the double fur style — and especially handsome are the scarfs of Scotch mole with a muff — enormous and perfectly flat to go with it. Mole is exceedingly popular for capes and coats and never have seal and moleskin met and mingled with such charming effect as in the long all-enveloping wraps and coats designed to keep out so many wintry breezes. Coats, Fur Trimmed and Otherwise Hardly less luxurious and cosy are the trim, graceful coats of Bolivia cloth, silk duvetyn and camels hair with collar and cuffs of squirrel, beaver, French seal or taupe nutria. The tailored coat is original in line, in simplicity of trimming; and lends itself to the scarfs and neck pieces so popular this season— Scotch plaids in the boldest designs are a big feature of many of the smartest new clothes. They are used for sport coats or as top coats to be worn with the straight model, black velveteen frocks now so popular ; sometimes they are combined with plain materials which make them ever more effective. The Newest Sweaters The newest sweaters are so interesting that they make us wonder how we could have held to the plain Tuxedo coat-sweaters for such a long time and why some one did not think, long ago, of making them like smocks and blouses as they are now. Utility was the great feature of the Tuxedo sweater, but utility and beauty characterize these newer ones. Some of them are short, loose and straight of line, knitted of fiber silk in plain color and embroidered in colored silk threads. Silk fringes and tassels adorn sweaters knitted in open mesh. Pleated ribbon, too, is a favorite trimming. A wool sweater, hand knitted, of bright green wool is trimmed with fluted frills of black taffeta ribbon. These encircle the bottom, trimmed with three-quarter length sleeves and edge of rolling collar. Other sweaters are made longer and drawn in at the waist by means of a pleated belt or a sash. Sweater sashes are now tied at the back instead of at the side, as they Handmade georgette day were last Season, frock done with black ^e pjOW beinf velvet loops. From omaT1 anr! fUP ericU Bonwit Teller and Com f™11 and the ends pany being long. Photograph by Apeda Page Sixty