Take One (Oct 1976)

suit; any color so long as it isn’t gray.” Mr. Hitchcock’s notes to me are that the girl must look as if she’s just drifted out of the San Francisco fog. He wants her to seem a part of the fog. In San Francisco everyone wears suits so the script calls for, specifically, a gray tailored suit. What to do? What did you do? Well, | showed her a handsome array of the most beautiful fabrics imaginable — all shades of gray. Finally she chose one and commented, “Where did you find that? It’s beautiful. | don’t mind wearing that gray.” Then after a quick suit fitting, | showed her the black satin gown which she wears in a later scene. This was more to her liking. Over the years you’ve worked on all sorts of pictures — period as well as contemporary films. What is your preference? | don’t really prefer one over the other, although period films are a lot easier. You’re reproducing rather than pure designing. There are rules to follow; clothes used to show rank, class, and occupation. Therefore, it's easier to develop character through costuming. Today there are no rules. Anybody can wear anything. However, | have no complaints about designing for contemporary films, despite the increasing lack of opportunity to design for female leads. It wasn’t hard to enjoy dressing beautiful men like Redford and Newman. My Only aversion is to uni-sex clothes. How do male and female performers stack up against one another as clothes horses? Of course there’s a greater scope in de signing for women. However, | must admit | favor the men. They're much easier to work with — less preconceived notions about how they should look. Also, a woman will suffer anything to look attractive, whereas a man, even with star status and ego concerns, will opt for comfort. Nowadays all films are shot in color. What are some of the special considerations in designing for color as opposed to black and white? Black and white is a lot harder. You have to be very careful about what colors you put together; otherwise there won’t be enough contrast in the finished film. For instance, a red dress with green trimmings would never do. It’s easier in color; the picture turns out the way you planned it. What effect do you think Women’s Lib has had on screen images of women and on the movie industry as a whole? Truthfully, | don’t think Women’s Lib has had any effect on the film industry. Screen stars have always been sex images and | think they always will be. It’s not that I’m supporting one kind of woman and downgrading another. Despite all the complaints about male domination in current films, | think women adore seeing Robert Redford on the screen. On the other hand, women have been moving into all phases of production. There are now female carpenters, electricians, drivers, etc. What about women directors? That seems to be a different story. For action films studios want male directors. The prejudice is still there. Things aren't that different from the days of Dorothy Arzner. She always dressed very mannishly. | suppose she felt that was a necessary part of playing the role of the director or that it would avoid bad feelings from men who disliked taking orders from a woman. Even for films with big female stars, there continues to be a demand for male directors. There is, after all, an extremely close relationship established between a star and her director in most cases, and this is to the star's advantage: look at Dietrich and Von Sternberg, for instance. If you were going to star in a film, who would you want to direct you — a man or a woman? | think I'd choose George Cukor myself. | must add, by the way, that I, myself, have never knowingly experienced any discrimination because of my sex. Of the many pictures you’ve worked on, what is your favorite; which your biggest regret? I’m proudest of To Catch a Thief, with Grace Kelly and Cary Grant. My biggest regret is not getting a chance to do the costumes for The Great Gatsby. Which of the stars do you feel is welldressed today? Well, Katharine Hepburn has her own look, although | wouldn’t call her welldressed. But today it’s no longer in vogue to be well-dressed. We prefer a more casual look. Stars don’t want to look like stars anymore. But it’s impossible to choose favorites. Hollywood is like a great zoo; every animal is different and each performer is a human being with his own style. | 13