Talking pictures : how they are made and how to appreciate them (1937)

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Talking Pictures New York stage actress, Madge Evans, was signed to appear opposite Ramon Novarro, a reigning male star. She could not leave the East until the end of the run of her play, which continued longer than she had expected. Finally it was necessary to start the picture, and all scenes were completed which did not require her presence. Eventually she left for California. The day she arrived the last scene which could be made without her had been photographed. If she could not work immediately, the entire company would have to be idle, with resulting heavy financial loss. Arriving at 5:45 p. m., she was taken to the studio. She put on make-up and donned her first gown. In one half hour she was working before the cameras, for her gown fitted her perfectly. It had been made with no other guide than a yardstick placed in a still picture with her. The photograph had been taken in New York. Solely through use of this comparison the wardrobe created a costume which required only one slight change at the neck. If the settings and gowns are really fine, the audience should be entirely unconscious of them. They are part of the background before which our story moves. If any portion of this background becomes obtrusive, something is wrong. The question of costume wardrobe is involved, and research is an important factor in answering it. A costume designer must maintain the known dress rules and the exceptions to them of the period with which he deals. Suppose careful research discovered that in the fifteenth century women wore four different kinds of [n6]