Talking pictures : how they are made and how to appreciate them (1937)

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Making Folks Over Young people with red cheeks are practically forced into this make-up, because too much red in the face often photographs as a black, or grayish blotch. A seemingly perfect make-up may prove unsuitable when tested by actual photography. Only long experience with cameras and film brings to make-up artists a sixth sense of how a make-up will photograph and even then the best of them sometimes guess wrong. "Most of our unpleasant surprises," Jack Dawn has said, "come from reflected light. We know what to expect from the spectrum of the direct lights which we use in our make-up rooms. But when that light hits something red, say a red dress, it reflects with an increased amount of that color. Red, of course, photographs, but it photographs dark. "Reflections from a red dress on the cheeks of a narrow face makes these cheeks appear sallow on the screen. High lights become middle tones, and the delicacy of true beauty can be distorted into ugliness by the wrong use of color. "The darkness with which red photographs is just as conspicuous on the screen as the color red is vividly arresting when it is seen. Red must be applied very carefully or the design of a beautiful girl's face will be spoiled. "An example is the face of Jeanette AlacDonald. She has a fine, oval face. Very little rouge is used in her make-up, and that is brushed along her cheekbones horizontally. This avoids producing a lengthening effect which would result if the rouge shadow added a vertical line in the curve of her cheek." [151]