Variety (Dec 1929)

r Wednesday, December 18, 1929 WOMEN'S PAGE VARIETY 49 Clothes and Clothes By Mollie Gray Talker Animal FiliW "Huntins Tlg«re In India" Is a thrilHng picture, eten If most of It has Been on New York screens pre- viously. Box office received more than Olio complaint on that .score, hut denied it. The whole tiger hunt, and the spotted deer, the wild hogs, all old. And the hilling is niislead- ing also, "The first talkine. picttirp record of—'* when the voice is sim- ply added to the. old pictures. New sections were the "rogue" elephant Idlli one liorned rhino and the black hucl^ as well as many, religious ceremonies. —— '— Moral of "Shrew" It took Hollywood to Settle the. question of who wrote Shakespeare's stuff. It 'wasn^t Bacon—it Was Mack Sennett. Whoever It was certainly had an eye to the pictures. "Tam- ing of the Shrew" was the leaven that has been responsible for many .A successful .picture. And. did Shakespeare know Jiis women? Pic- turing' wild Kate's change from a hawk to a dove, but with lier tongue in her cheek the while. Mary Pick- ford is more beautiful In these me^ dleval costumes than in modem clothes. Her wedding gown was weighted with pearls and her sheer white gown; trimmed with exquisite lace •was lovely. And if she really , wore that velvet chinchilla-collared cape wheii she fell in the mud—but, of course, she didn't, it would cause too much suffering among women spectators. Picture, carries a moral; too, for the men, forsootli, odds bod- kins and to wit: Never think you've really convinced a woman of any- thing, especially when she agrees with you. 'fountain Melodies" contains some of the most gorgeous scenery ever screened, a delight to ihe eye and not hard on the ear either, in particular that mothers' favorite, "Juanita." . . "Today and Yesterday" In sport, clothes, Ironsportation and people Is educational and interesting, espe- cially the difference so apparent be- tween the flicker of then and the film of now. : Cohstancs Bennett's Gowns . A strainger naturally thought the Boxy lobby was dteorated with ex- tremely lifelike jstatues until the organ strains of the national an- them were 3ieard and realized they were the ushers standing at atten- tion. Cziganyok (Gypsies) looks like a practice line on a typewriter, but the Roxy program is responsible and the name covers a bright and colorful pi-esentation. Nocturne simply a fluttering about of the ballet corps in chiffons of various colors against a heavenly blue star-studded softly full cer- tain; but very graceful. "Dancing ^et" gradually became the troupe as the curtain raised and the ;>lat- form lowered, costumes red trimmed pants and blouse affairs. "March- ing Home to You" a stirring set- ting with its stageful of troupes in the dimness and the lone figure on . a treadmill upstage. "This Thing Called l«ve," which Instead of turning the marriage problem inside out, as it starts out to do, just\£oes around In a circle with highly tntertaininff results. Constance Bennett is charmingly gowned at all times. A light crepe suit, whose short Jacket used string bows instead of buttons, had a lux- urious collar and sleeve trim of fox, skirt with but one pleated flare to the. side front. White velvet dark furred wrap was hip length and worn over a white satin gown with °a very interesting skirt whose two flounces started an Inch wide at the waist and became most of the skirt at the sideis, crossing each other back and front. . Several of her gowns used the ■ame idea with the starting point at different places, another time at the side of the skirt and again the Bide at the waist line and held with a jeweled buckle. Ruth Taylor -waa a, helpful fripnd In white chiffon with a large, decor- ation on skirt and shoulder of self flowers. ZaSu Pitts, always a treat, Is no longer a slavey but a metallic brocaded but nevertheless bitterly r,deceived wife^ The Petrov Dancers = appeared^lH^tlr(r"we^c<ilored-^cene In an unusually • novel creation. Carrhellta Geraghty made a good vamp, always dressed in black to ber and the gown's advantage. are more retiring by vising just lines of pearls on light colored silks to make the slightly pouched style. And cut steel beads haven't retired from the everting field entirely either, some very smart effects be- ing shown. .„ Times square shops,—^I. Miller featuring ensembles : consisting of. slippers, hose and purse In a; chest of three drawers all ready for gifts. The^ leathers are colored -suede or black patent, the hose the proper shade to harmonize, Hotel Astor Hat Shop is ready for winter with the new strawiB and some of the past favorites such as balibuntal and baku. Panamalac is not a patent medicine, it's Panama straw stretched very thin and t^n lacquered. The Beverly dress shop shows a lovely white crepe frock Whose skirt length and fullness is achieved through large circular flares whose joining the bodice makes ah attracr tive seaming. Only trimming is a narrow belt of rhinestones and emeralds which ties in front with a bow of the. crepe and-the/U neck- liiie edged with the sia.me. Knox has a handy underarm bag about nine inches long that dangles a silk tasslie, which is not just a nuisance in this case, since the tas- sle leads to a perfectly practical umbrella. • . ■ Unclothed and Unclothed The Academy verdict on N. T. G.'s Midnight Revels was averse. These girls who have little to offer but nerve to wear the costumes, (though they did v(rear silk blbuses for the audience invasion, which was a tri- umph on somebody's part) meant nothing here, where they like their burlesque where they can enjoy it. There miay be something in the worM as useless as this act to a clothes column, but it's hard to Im- agine what it is. The girl with Gordon and Walker, who were full of spirits, looked well In a frock of brown, velvet bodice, whose points overlapped the two- tone net of the skirt, which hung in straight panels. Hat mached the velvet and some bead trim in the same brown livened up the bodice. Ida Shipley with the Brown Derby Band wears but one costume, yet makes It serve twice by simply sub- tracting the skirt and collar, which were of orchid tissue edged with silver bands, rather pretty. Girl with Jane and Whalen wore a prietty yellow, satin sleeveless frock with pleated skirt and twisted sash of yellow and brown. Madge Kennedy's Frock The always enjoyable Ted Lewis and his musical clowns at the Riverside (could call them Yellow Kids from the costumes) hasn't changed his staging. The delightful Eleanor Brooks was the picture of grace In a white silk frock whose double skirt was long and very full, both hems finished with crystal and bodice also trimmed so. A previous costume was just as white;, but not just as voluminou.s. Madge Kennedy has little oppor- tunity to display her gifts in this sketch called "The Red Hat," which had nothing to do with a Cardinal, The hat was about the brightest thing in it. Miss Kennedy's frock was a small dark fibred silk with a light background made with the circular ruffle treatment, coming to a point in the back. Other side of the ^kirt was a circular flare, sleeves long and tight.' Maxine Flood In black chiffon, sleeveless and short gloves, made it hard to believe she was a home wrecker, foiled through Miss Kennedy's prompt action. Miss Barry of Barry and Whit- ledge, "Jest for a While,'' wore a frock of delicate lace in beige and skirt with one ruffle that circled it, While another went but part way round, collar points that reached the waistline back and front and a string belt tied in back at th€ natu- ral waistline. No evening bag was made to hang Vnseen these dayfi or nights rather. They are solidly rhinestoned or pearled with Jeweled clasps. Others Harry Carroll's Revuette depends more on the black-out than the gir:» who were shabbily treated as to costuming even for vaudeville. Opening in their only pretty frocks, Which were of crepe, each using two colors, the usual blue with pink and pink with yellow, pleated flares Jn .^th 6-^ skiEt6-.^and=b£Etha .collars* Others for specialties were those tworbit velvets. The prima donna fared or rather frocked better from the very beginning when she looked sweet in a white silk nicely cut driess trimmed only with orange color crepe making edge and bow to the front neckline and becoming a circular capelet in back, again in pale blue crepe. A white silk frock with bishop sleeves and sin occa- sional painted flower was quite charming. Miss Lewis also wore a dainty pink taffeta and tulle with a touch of silk embroidery down the right side. '—-r^ — Olive Boriren*^ Disguise 'iDance Hall" at the Globe Is probably completely de-authored. Judging Vina Delmar by "Bad Girl," which gets the biggest billing, this is only the shell of the story and it's Arthur Lake's picture. Olive Borden, disguised in a most unbe- coming blond wig, perhaps hoping nobody would recognize her,: is the dance hostess whoi assists Arthur while collecting hlis .cups as a dancer. Even Miss Borden's famous figure is lost under the very short niffled, skirts. The one frock worth mentioning was of dark jersey with bloused bodice in bold stripeis, tiny buttons and loops closing the tight collar in front. Agnes Ayres Smartly Dressed A^es Ayres and Arman . Kaliz amuse themselves and some others at the 86th Street In their skit, "A Night in Cairo,", witii musical or rather singing touches. Miss Ayres looks better-off the screen than on, her blond hair really'lovely. Gown was of silk fringed skirt, dipping in hack over chiffon brocade the same color and cut very scant In the sides of bodice. Wrap a smart af- fair t)f gray velvet brocade with white fox standing collar and cuffs. Rudy's Distant Girl Friend "The Vagabond Lover," Rudy Vallee's only picture, might have been made with a still camera. Sally Blaine won't be' the envy of all flapperhood as might have been expected. No matter where she stood, she was still xniles away froin Rudy. Miss Blaine wore a very becoming frock of dark silk with one revere, using three shades of silk, all with scalloped edges, and the same for a triple collar which reached the waist In back with a point. Hollywood Styles By Cecelia Ager Hollywood Dec, 14. Exceptions That Prove the Rule Once a knockout blonde was seen riding through Hollywood on a street car. Once in a theatre sequence in a picture some members of the audi- ence were not in evening clothes. Once a picture actress playing a mythical Balkan queen had a ward- robie Without the headgear pattern- ed after Queen Marie's flowinjg veils. Once a nouveau riohe was por- trayed on the screen by an actress ."wearing . neither . bracelets :, nor sables. Once there was a blonde picture star who made a whole picture with none of her close-ups backlighted to make halos of her hair. Studio Designers Discuss Long . Skirts Travis Banton. (Paramount): Long skirts are' right when they are logical; wrong wheii they run agog without regard for pccasibh, individual figure, or costume's lines. Informal and sports clothes reach the correct length when the knee is well covered. Formal day clothes may be longer, even ankle length, if the hem is even all the way round. The long, flowing ends almost sweeping the ground seen on the streets In Hollywood are bad style by their ignorant exaggeration. Evening clothes may be ais long as you .please, but trains are out of place In night clubs, If skirts are made longer too quickly, without a proper ^adual development, and are too univer- sally iadopted, sinart women may return to shorter skirts, as a refuge. In order to wear long skirts with- out awkwardness, women must ac- custom themselves to the new length slowly, till they've mastered the art of -being casual about; It. Longer skirts are an expr^sislon of Uncommon Chatter By Ruth Morris Girl Band Vogue There seems to be another epi- demic of those lady-orchestras, booked In the houses all over town. The latest one is Alex Hyde's ilod^ em Maidens,, currently at the State,, and a very nice act It is. It handles jazz with si>Irit and tonal accuracy and tears Into a rip-roctring finish with Tschalkowski's "1812." It has also an exceptional soloist In Fran- ces Mae Maddux who croons bal- lads in a grand effortless voice. Costumes are attractive, arty look- ing things with faded blue flannel trou, blouses of corn color satin and girdles and berets in brilliant blue. Gives the act iaii awfully smart flavor. Zelda Santley's flair for Imper- sonations achieves accurate like- nesses of Ted Lewis, Chevalier and other well known entertainers, her Helen Morgan Imitation being the only unsuccessful one. She wears an unusual frock of black lace over petaled chiffon with such good style that it manages miraculously to look smart and tasteful. Costumes for the girls with Frank Dobson are unchanged and Mrs. Joe Laurie appears in the difficult task of doing nothing charmingly wearing a two-piece sports suit of powder blue. Elviry Weaver Is wearing her other dress at the Riverside this week—a natty little number in red calico with white cotton trim Her comedy and that of her Home Folks is a smash. '■ The Harrington Sisters appear in a cunning baby wardrobe and spHl sophisticated material. Herb Wil-. liams' beauty chorus of one wears typical Herb Williamlsh costumes and Venita Gould effects, a char- treuse taffeta for clever Impersona- tions. The New York theatre diverted its patrons on Tuesday with "Dark Skies," starring Shirley Mason. The film reeled off a trite plot involv- ing a village maiden, a stern uncle, and a city slicker who turned out to be a hero, despite his bootlegging, Spanlsli,Acceivt JMi4 haWt of^ panying himself on the guitar. Halfway through, the fihn of- fered more entertainment than had been expected by a slip in its me- chanical apparatus. Audiences can't be expected to take very seriously a love Bcen^ in which the man's voice 3s beard when the girl Is 'speaking, and vic« versa. , Film Mamas'Jubilee Production of "The Marriage Playground" (bringing Tjrjth it the chance to .cast all their little dar- lings in fat parts) must have de.- lighted the film-mothers of Holly- wood. The picture has. been taken frotn Edith Wharton's "The Chil- dren," which concerned itself with the parental-divorce troubles of a group of the darndest, most Irre- pressible and aniusing kids that ever crept Intd print. The children have been well chosen for the pic- ture and, Qlnce precoclousness was written into their parts, are not a bit annoying. They handle their lines like seasoned troupers, espe- cially a little Impertinent named Little Mitzl, and Anita Loulise, who plays the scheming and beautiful Blanco. Mary Brian has many good performances to her credit, but her portrayal of July Is among the finest things she has done. Lllyan Tashman is stunning, de- spite a decidedly unbecoining hair arrangement, as the ever-belng-dl- vorced Mrs. Wheater. Her clothes are slightly over-done, as they should be.. Synthetic Erin "Lucky in Love" has a synthetic and highly Improbable plot which provides an excuse for Morton Downey to sing Irish ballads as he climbs the ladder of success from horse groom to bridegroom. It's flavored with heavy Irish accents and the breath of atild Ireland, sure and It is. Betty Lawford tries to be con- vincing as the Lady Ma.ry, but her part Is against her. . Also on the Colony program Is a short called . "Hotey Totsy," which Is hilariously funny in spots, par- ticularly the episode dealing 'with the ' -'world's best tap-dancer," Beanie Barnet. Many of. the sins of talking pic- tures should be forgiven since one of them, "General Crack," has given back to John Barrymore his voice. U's such a nice voice—and he does iBiich' nic« "tWni^¥"wIifi"'^ I^^^^^^ i-ead lines with fir^e, wth sardonic humor and with deep and moving sincerity. It's almost as grand as that Barrymore profile. Marian Nixon is beautiful and sweet as Maria Luisa, but does lit" tie more than recite her linesr. Armi- da handles a gypsy part excellently. a more formal and griEicefuI mode o£ living. Adrian (M-G-M): Women should not be alarmed by this upheaval In style. Accept it With a grain of salt,. until the present exaggeration and enthusiasm over skirt lengtiis settles. Long.skirts should be worn only for most formal occasions. Really long skirts are nice only when they are Impractical. Day clothes should not be longer than four Inches below the knees. Eve- ning clothes are a nlatter of In- dividual likes. The viroman whose pocketbopk. Is average Is wise to follow a mbdifliied version of the. styles sponsored by fashion's lead^ ers. Skirt lengths will be regu- lated finally by practicality, not ar- bitrary-dictates. Edward .Steveniion (First Na- tional): The tendency toward long skirts has. already been • over-, done .In Hollywood. Women have lengthened the.lr skirts before they have learned how to wear thftm easily. Stumbling and tripping over skh'ts Impede their movement at present, but when moderation tri- umphs, there Is a grace and beauty to the longer silhouette that siiould make It a comparatively permanent mode. Gwen Wakeling- (Pathe): The longer skirts niake women look slimmer, taller, more dignified, more gracious and more feminine. Walter PIunkett (RKO): Short skirts were unkind to fern- . Inine beauty. They cut height and tended to make women look dumpy. They revealed legs that should never have been revealed; Since there are but a dozen wonien In Hollywood whose legs are beatltlful, the new long skirts make women interesting by their stibtlety. Ilong.* er skirts ard flattering to every woman'is figure; They add height and grace, and wearing them women acquire a new-found poise that Is la decided asset to femin- inity. Sophie Wachner (Fox): Long skii-ts are smart and appropriate for formal afternoon wear and for the evening. Long day clothes are in bad taste and ridlculdua longer than fou^ or five inches below the kneea. Hollywood does not discriminate as to the proper place and time for long skirts, but fimart women In Parlis and New York will not ^ear long skirts on the street.' It Is rather difficult t^ accustom women to the new long line from waist to hem. By breaking this Une skillfully long skirts will be . accepted more readily. At The Studios Joan Crayvf erdy In Montana, is a smart young miss who proves It by wearing a tailored green cloth dress with a short leo- paxd Jacket. Leopard Is not only a becoming fur to Joan, but also Is symbolical of the personality M-(j>- M Is developing for her. She Is their exponent.of lithe swift grace; a feline underneath, tinged with spitfire. That's why this costume is so good, it describes her type and still plausible air correct stylei. Its slim one-piece dreiBS, flaring out low. at the hem, is ,tled with a knot of leopard skin,at the neck. The straight box coat is lined ^ith the material that makes the dr^ss. Lila Lee 1« bv^r at. RKO at the moment playing the title . role In "Second Wife." Walter Flunltett designed a ycillow chlifon costume for her, a lieat example of what cd,n be done wl.th spirals. Beginning clock-wise at the. round neckline, these spiral sections swirl until at the Vwalstline they are running counterrclock wise. They end Ih flaring points at the skirt bottoih. Somehow or other, two. , of the sections at the top develop into capes oyer one shoulder. Long sleeves repeat the spiral motif. There Is a , yellow horsehair hat with a back-turned brim of yellow tulle, and as a lesson in thorough- ness, MlBs Lee wears three canary martens. Ruth Chatterton, In "Sarah a^- Son," looks like the mysterl woman In a black velvet ever ensemble. The dress, without t ment of any kind, not even a.' has a wide shallow neckline, . waist-Indicated by-crushing t^^—-^-"- vet softly, and a skirt that and supple to the Ttneep after the skirt gains wl' serted panels till It flar huge fantall at the bo finished with deep b< Wrap of velvet is (Continued on pa,