The world film encyclopedia (1933)

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24 The Art of Make-up close the pores and refresh the skin by patting with cold water and then a good astringent. After this, apply a small amount of foundation cream to the forehead, cheeks, nose and chin. Please understand that the less you use, the better the final effect. Dip your finger-tips into cold water and gently blend the foundation cream into the skin, until it disappears from the surface. Work away from the centre of the face towards the side, using a one-way stroke. Your face is now ready for the eye shadow. Apply it very faintly on the upper eyelids, just below the ej'^ebrows, and blend it in. Use great care lest it be too noticeable and its effect theatrical. Pat rouge lightly on the highest spot of your cheek, just below the cheekbone. Blend it gently into the skin with the finger-tips, shading the colour downwards to the full part of the check, keeping the colour away from the nose. Blend it until there is no definite line of colour to be seen. Remember that your object is to shade it so that the warm bloom looks as if it had actually grown on your cheeks. Apply the face powder profusely with a powder puff, covering all your face. Then take a small, soft face powder-brush and brush off the surplus powder. (Never rub powder on.) In this way you will have an even surface of powder that will last for hours. Then shape the eyebrows, fill them in, or give them a more pronounced colour and sheen with an eyebrow pencil. Where the eyelashes meet the lid, draw a fine line to define the eyes and accentuate their size. Now apply mascara to the upper lashes by brushing upwards, then to the lower lashes by brushing downwards. Moisten the brush very slightly to prevent smearing. Again let me emphasize the extreme importance of applying make-up delicately, for this is the secret of obtaining the natural result that is admired and desirable. Your lips now require attention. Use lipstick sparingly. Dry the lips first and apply the lipstick evenly. Iveep it well towards the inside of your mouth and avoid a rouge line where the lips meet. Then moisten the lips. Finally, use a liquid blender on the untouched skin of your neck, so as to finish off in the same shade as your face powder. Smooth it on gently and evenly, using a downward one-way stroke and work it into the skin until dry. Afterwards, to add lustrous sheen to your hair, sprinkle a little brilliantine as a final touch. Experience has shown us that under artificial lights your natural day-time make-up is toned down. I recommend, therefore, a more enlivening colour harmony for evening make-up. As counsel for many screen and stage celebrities and society beauties of Europe and this country, the difficulties of cleansing the skin thoroughly have been presented to me. A cleansing cream of highly refined materials and oils is absolutely essential. If the skin is inclined to be oily, always use a good astringent before applying make-up. This neutralizes excessive oil sufficiently to give you a base for perfect make-up. Many skins have a tendency to become too dry at times. This is a handicap in make-up and also leads to premature wrinkles. As a corrective, use a skin and tissue cream. This is readily absorbed. It supplies the oil which the skin lacks and restores a normal, soft, smooth texture. Tissue cream should be applied at night. Never massage the cream into the skin. Just pat it gently and smartly with the finger-tips. If used regularly your skin acquires almost a rosepetal softness. One last word. I do believe that a healthy skin, blooming with radiant vitality, is the barometer of a healthy body. Correct eating, exercise, and rest are essential to a good complexion and a radiant appearance. These are the surest foundations upon which to enhance beauty by make-up.